Sunday, September 23, 2007
View into the other part of the valley
After venturing around in several different caves, we hiked around a bend in the hill where we could see the valley of Tuti to the southeast and the next part of the valley that opened up to Chivay to the northwest. The view was just a tiny chunk of the Colca Valley but nevertheless seemed enormous.
Cave View overlooking Tuti and into part of the Valle del Colca
In the hills of Tuti to the north, are a set of large caves at the top that overlook the town. Many of the locals had pointed them out to me, and told me they were ancient Incan caves. The people here really want to me to work for tourism, so I figured a trip to the caves could give me an idea if this was an actual selling point. Originally I was not big on the idea of flooding the town with North American and European tourists, but then I realized that tourism was one of the few ways of bringing in an outside source of income.
I had started my resistance bands workout routine again, but went too overboard on it, and managed to get a very uncomfortable pain in my neck the night before the hike. I woke up at 10:30 at night in pain, was unable to breath in comfort nor find any possible position in bed that was comfortable for my neck. I tossed and turned the whole night, and managed probably 4 hours of sleep. When I woke up, my hands had the shakes, and to say the least, I just did not feel right. I went to one of the little stores in the plaza and bought a pain killer, which helped with the pain but then made me feel lethargic and my legs feel like Jell-o. I knew this hike was going to be an mental experience, but there was no way I was not going to try to get to those caves especially when 2 other volunteers had made the trip to Tuti with the plans of me going with them to the caves, and 2 locals had changed their morning plans to show us the way.
At about 6:30am our group of 6 people headed off to the caves. Alonzo, one of my counterparts, led the way along with the Narcisa, an owner of one of the local restaurants and who has quickly become one of my favorite people in Tuti. I pretty much gasped the whole way, which was a combination of my collarbone hurting when I breathed deeply and being over 12,800 feet above sea level, and focused on just putting one foot in front of the other. Obviously out of all days this one of the worst days to feel like you just wanted to lie down. At several points through the steady climb, the traditional hat of Narcisa and the yellow shirt of Alonzo started glowing, and the tan hillside turned to a bright haze. I managed to avoid asking the other volunteers the rhetorical question of if everything was glowing in their vision too.
After two miles of hiking up hill, and only 200 meters from the caves, we encountered 3 cows hanging out and grazing away on the trail. The cows and us shared looks of, “what are you guys doing up here?” I wondered if they were escapees, and imagined that the owner had been looking everywhere low and not 400 feet above him on the side of hill/cliff.When we got to the caves I was finally able to rest and not worry about making sure my camera was in my uphill hand so if I passed out during the trek it would not fall to its demise. Here I was rewarded with one of the most spectacular views I had ever seen. Of course the valley is vast, but only from a birds eye view could I see all the contours of what surrounds Tuti. One of the volunteers exclaimed to me, “This is where you live!” It was like a dream where I was floating over this unbelievable terrain, and I was able to pause my dream and look at everything with vivid clarity. We all sat there in silence, feeling and listening to the wind rush up the hillside. The silence was broke when I and another volunteer watched a circling hawk, which was at about our eye level, break into a freefalling dive and dropped out of our sight. “That was awesome!!” we stated in unison. Earlier I had just been talking to this volunteer about how I heard the “whoosh” of a diving bird of prey in
I had started my resistance bands workout routine again, but went too overboard on it, and managed to get a very uncomfortable pain in my neck the night before the hike. I woke up at 10:30 at night in pain, was unable to breath in comfort nor find any possible position in bed that was comfortable for my neck. I tossed and turned the whole night, and managed probably 4 hours of sleep. When I woke up, my hands had the shakes, and to say the least, I just did not feel right. I went to one of the little stores in the plaza and bought a pain killer, which helped with the pain but then made me feel lethargic and my legs feel like Jell-o. I knew this hike was going to be an mental experience, but there was no way I was not going to try to get to those caves especially when 2 other volunteers had made the trip to Tuti with the plans of me going with them to the caves, and 2 locals had changed their morning plans to show us the way.
At about 6:30am our group of 6 people headed off to the caves. Alonzo, one of my counterparts, led the way along with the Narcisa, an owner of one of the local restaurants and who has quickly become one of my favorite people in Tuti. I pretty much gasped the whole way, which was a combination of my collarbone hurting when I breathed deeply and being over 12,800 feet above sea level, and focused on just putting one foot in front of the other. Obviously out of all days this one of the worst days to feel like you just wanted to lie down. At several points through the steady climb, the traditional hat of Narcisa and the yellow shirt of Alonzo started glowing, and the tan hillside turned to a bright haze. I managed to avoid asking the other volunteers the rhetorical question of if everything was glowing in their vision too.
After two miles of hiking up hill, and only 200 meters from the caves, we encountered 3 cows hanging out and grazing away on the trail. The cows and us shared looks of, “what are you guys doing up here?” I wondered if they were escapees, and imagined that the owner had been looking everywhere low and not 400 feet above him on the side of hill/cliff.When we got to the caves I was finally able to rest and not worry about making sure my camera was in my uphill hand so if I passed out during the trek it would not fall to its demise. Here I was rewarded with one of the most spectacular views I had ever seen. Of course the valley is vast, but only from a birds eye view could I see all the contours of what surrounds Tuti. One of the volunteers exclaimed to me, “This is where you live!” It was like a dream where I was floating over this unbelievable terrain, and I was able to pause my dream and look at everything with vivid clarity. We all sat there in silence, feeling and listening to the wind rush up the hillside. The silence was broke when I and another volunteer watched a circling hawk, which was at about our eye level, break into a freefalling dive and dropped out of our sight. “That was awesome!!” we stated in unison. Earlier I had just been talking to this volunteer about how I heard the “whoosh” of a diving bird of prey in
Plaza in Yanque
Site of another volunteer. The old lady in the pic asked me to take a picture of her after I had already taken it. They ask for photos and then when you take it, they ask for money.
When it pays off to not pay attention
A week and a half ago I was walking down this road with two other volunteers, going from Sibayo to Callalli. I was not paying attention to the other volunteers’ conversation because I was zoning out like I usually do when I look at the seemingly never-ending valley of vast hills and canon walls. My trance was broken when I heard a quick repetitive screech from a bird of prey. I looked up above me and to the right from where I heard the noise and I saw a falcon 20 feet above us. Literally within that second that I saw the falcon, I caught sight of another but smaller bird of prey (not sure what kind it was because it was moving so fast) diving down at the falcon. The falcon barrel rolled upside down and stretched its claws up into the sky towards the oncoming bird. I could hear the “whoosh” from the diving bird’s velocity as it cut through the air over the falcon, just inches from the talons.
To this I exclaimed to my fellow volunteers, “OH SH*#!” while I watched the falcon spin back over with its prized rodent still clasped firmly in beak. The falcon flew off with what was obviously the reason for the air strike, and I asked the other volunteers, “Did you see that?!” Unfortunately for them they did not which was probably the closest we will ever physically get to such a scene, but one volunteer did say that they heard the “whoosh” too of the bird of prey diving by. I hurriedly explained, “It was freaking amazing, the falcon had a rodent in its beak, and like, this other bird…”
The air battle transpired in just a second, but I still get goose bumps every time I play it over again in my head. I guess there are sometimes when it pays to not pay attention.
To this I exclaimed to my fellow volunteers, “OH SH*#!” while I watched the falcon spin back over with its prized rodent still clasped firmly in beak. The falcon flew off with what was obviously the reason for the air strike, and I asked the other volunteers, “Did you see that?!” Unfortunately for them they did not which was probably the closest we will ever physically get to such a scene, but one volunteer did say that they heard the “whoosh” too of the bird of prey diving by. I hurriedly explained, “It was freaking amazing, the falcon had a rodent in its beak, and like, this other bird…”
The air battle transpired in just a second, but I still get goose bumps every time I play it over again in my head. I guess there are sometimes when it pays to not pay attention.
Wolf in the Plaza
On the last day of my future site visit in Tuti, i was sitting on a bench in the plaza waiting for a colectivo taxi (a taxi you wait for 6 other people to take with you to the same destination) when a wolf strolled on over to me. I already knew that it was a misconception that wolves are aggresive, people from the States think they are because in the states we have Husky/Wolf mixes and it is actually the Husky that it is aggressive. So there I was petting a wolf on a Sunday morning, and even had to push him off my lap a couple times because he wanted to get too friendly with me. I felt it was a nice way to wrap up my site visit.
Tuti
Tuti right before sunset.
The ninth week of our training all the volunteers were scheduled to go on future site visits. 1 or 2 days before leaving (depending on the site) was when we actually found out where we were going. In my last interview with my director of micro-business I got to see a list of potential sites. None of the names meant anything to me except Arequipa. I did not have an initial response as he read off the list, because how could I give an opinion when I did not know anything about the different departments of Peru. I only had knowledge about Ancash because our Field Based Training was there, and knowledge about Arequipa because another volunteer at length had explained its beauty and the diversity of activities to do in Arequipa, and that from what he knew he thought Arequipa would be a perfect fit for me. Having respect for the other volunteer’s opinions, who has become a good friend, I told my director that I would of have liked to be placed in Arequipa, but that either way I knew he by far had more knowledge than I do about the sites, and that I trusted his decision.
Following the interview though, I heard everyday prior to our site selection that 2 other business volunteers had already been selected to go to Arequipa, and I knew there were only 2 available spots for business volunteers. The morning of the day we were to find out about site placement, a Spanish professor even told me the names of the 2 volunteers who were supposedly going to Arequipa. To this, I had absolutely no clue about where I was going, I just guessed Ancash because it was a mountain region, and the mountains have more Machismo so it was less likely for a woman volunteer to go there.
For finding out about where we were placed, the staff had put the names of future sites on foam fish and placed them in the training center pool. The volunteers then had to fish out the site names one by one, and then the directors would announce who is going to that sight. I was actually a little down going into our site placement. I was certain that when Ancash came up, it would be me, but I really did not want to go there only because I had already been there for Field Based Training and I wanted to see a new part of Peru. If any of the other names came up, I would probably have had to fake a reaction because I did not know any anything about the site, like faking that you are happy about a Christmas present after opening it and yet you are not sure what it is. So when Tuti, Arequipa was fished out and my director announced my name, I was stunned and elated. I had completely ruled out the possibility, which had me grinning ear to ear about getting placed there. Not only did that have me happy, but when I saw what 3 other volunteers we going to Arequipa with me (a married couple: 1 business, 1 youth development, and another youth volunteer), I was completely satisfied to know that I would get to share my 2 year experience with people I enjoyed being around during training, and whose personalities seemed to mesh together.
Following the interview though, I heard everyday prior to our site selection that 2 other business volunteers had already been selected to go to Arequipa, and I knew there were only 2 available spots for business volunteers. The morning of the day we were to find out about site placement, a Spanish professor even told me the names of the 2 volunteers who were supposedly going to Arequipa. To this, I had absolutely no clue about where I was going, I just guessed Ancash because it was a mountain region, and the mountains have more Machismo so it was less likely for a woman volunteer to go there.
For finding out about where we were placed, the staff had put the names of future sites on foam fish and placed them in the training center pool. The volunteers then had to fish out the site names one by one, and then the directors would announce who is going to that sight. I was actually a little down going into our site placement. I was certain that when Ancash came up, it would be me, but I really did not want to go there only because I had already been there for Field Based Training and I wanted to see a new part of Peru. If any of the other names came up, I would probably have had to fake a reaction because I did not know any anything about the site, like faking that you are happy about a Christmas present after opening it and yet you are not sure what it is. So when Tuti, Arequipa was fished out and my director announced my name, I was stunned and elated. I had completely ruled out the possibility, which had me grinning ear to ear about getting placed there. Not only did that have me happy, but when I saw what 3 other volunteers we going to Arequipa with me (a married couple: 1 business, 1 youth development, and another youth volunteer), I was completely satisfied to know that I would get to share my 2 year experience with people I enjoyed being around during training, and whose personalities seemed to mesh together.
Earthquake
I'm good, I was on my way to our Business Director's house on a combi (mini-public bus) in Lima when the earthquake hit, and I was practicing Quechua with another volunteer in the back of the combi. We were busy reading our notebooks, and we just thought we were on a bad gravel road and didn't even bother looking up. It wasn't until we stopped on the side of the road that we asked what was going on and at that point all the people were out of their houses and in the street. We went into our Director's house and we could see how some of the pool water had jumped out of the pool. The epicenter was south of Lima close to Chincha, Ica, and Pisco. I had actually visited Chincha the weekend of July 29th, which is a beach town with a diverse population of peruvians, afro-peruvians, and tourists. The living room in the house we were staying at collapsed during the earthquake and the people there have no water or electricty, but thankfully the family we stayed with is okay. About 30% of the Chincha is leveled, the town of Pisco is pretty much gone with half the hospital collapsed, and 25% of the buildings have collapsed in Ica, which has about 120,000 people. The richter scale of the earthquake was upgraded to 8.1, and there was about a dozen tremors over 3 days. The power went out for a hour in my barrio and a couple others the day after the earthquake, but the volunteers and I were pretty much unaffected by the earthquake and fortunately the majority of volunteers happened to be in Lima at the time at the Peace Corps Center for a variety of meetings. I had my future site visit last week, I'm going to be living in Tuti, Arequipa which is 3,790 meters above sea level (12,343 feet) which is over 1,000 feet higher than Mount Hood. I need to take two more weeks of Quechua before I head out, which is the language of the Incas. I don't need to know it, and I'll be using plenty of Spanish in my site but it is going to help with me intergrating into my site because the older people use at times and the people will have alot of respect for a gringo who can speak Quechua. There a few different types of Quechua but my group of 4 volunteers going to Arequipa are fortunate to have a Peace Corps professor of Quecha who is of Arequipa and knows the correct Quechua for us to learn. It's optional but I figured why not take advantage of getting to learn an indigenous language for free and maybe I'll have come home with 2 new languages. My primary project will be me working with the cheese company in Tuti. They want me to help look for new markets but first they need to standardize their product. I talked to them about changing their packaging since they only use ceranwrap for their product. I also connected up with 3 different youth associations about doing future projects with them, all the people want me to teach english, and there's a couple projects I want to do with tourism like helping them develop web pages and repairing the guardrails and chairs at sightseeing site and making a tablet with information about the Valle del Colca in Spanish and English. If your curious about exactly where will I be, look up Valley of Colca (Valle del Colca). I will be living in it, and it is spectacular and one of the must see sights of the world, there should be plenty of info about it in the internet.
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